Monday, 28 February 2011

Douglas Booth in Burberry Prorsum

Image courtesy of thisislondon.com 

After staring at the divine Douglas Booth for a good half hour, I focused on his Burberry Prorsum trench coat for a further hour. Last week, the actor and former Burberry model arrived at the every exclusive show off Kensington Road, central west London near the Royal Albert Hall wearing two distinct spring summer 2011 pieces.


His double breasted bonded cotton poplin trench was the piece that really stood out against the black jeans, military inspired boots (whether or not they are Burberry, I do not know) and white, cotton prize cow printed t-shirt. The playful print was a cheeky addition to his look, irreverent and humorous which Douglas's cheeky smile reinforces.


Douglas has been a Burberry model since October 2009, staring along side Emma Watson for the Spring Summer 2010 capmagins. He made his name in the BBC drama 'Worried About the Boy' in which he played singer Boy George in 2010 and has since been picked for a number of films in production this year. His simple way of dressing accentuates his stature and sillouette, which is evident in the shots from the show last week, but from other images you can see that he doesn't need to much to attract attention.

Bejesus, this boy is beautiful!

Louis Vuitton Surprise...


SURPRISE....







It might not be the most expensive item in the world, but it is one of the most useful....the Louis Vuitton guide to Los Angeles. 

Menswear Day London Fashion Week AW11 Edit


KATIE EARY

Inspired by 'The American dream' and Fifties high school, Eary's collection was a storming offering that did not disappoint. With Kim Jones in the audience, further reference includes a turned on its head by way of nonfiction science book Elephants On Acid And Other Bizarre Experiments by Alex Boese. To the sound of tunes 'Do You Remember' by The Horrors and Cliff Richard's 'Do You Remember', slime-green and blood-red leopard-print tops and bottoms were presented along side Goulish varsity and shearling jackets. Tarantula-print which was a bit of a shocker was apt along side cut-out cobweb tops. Desirable hairy knitwear worked well mixed with Triumph biker jackets and a childish, but age appropriate Frankenstein's monster backpack with customised Nike Air Force Ones on the bottom. Oh, and neck-bolts which topped of this collection nicely. 



LOU DALTON

The wonderful and utterly visionary Lou Dalton says she was influenced by the frustrated and disillusioned Seattle scene through to the discomforting ruthlessness of the Russian criminal underworld. From this, the collection was based around a feeling of discomfort which drives an individual to look inwardly or to look around for acceptance from others. With that deepness, 'Painted Eyes' by Hercules and Love Affair and 'Moments Of Excellence'  by Black Van, mixed and produced by Jim Stanton from Horse Meat Disco, was a stunning and suitable soundtrack. The tailored collection featured an incredible double-breasted grey herringbone overcoat (below) along side fur-lined jackets, intarsia knits and a long sleeve T-shirt featuring the by Ricardo Fumanel used on the invitation which took the guise of a Russian gangster tattoo-style illustration. Oh, and Grenson shoes on the bottom was a move that took my excitement over the edge. 



TIM SOAR

With a collection that featured women, presenting the title, literally, of He/She, this was a reworking of the classics offering for the season. Tim Soar has some stunning pieces using interesting fabrics such as neoprene (in herringbone jackets), leather American varsity inspired jackets and melton for coats which interestingly used contrasting cotton sleeves. The using of British Hainsworth wool added to the military influence - they are used on Royal guard uniforms - and the velcro waistband tuxedo trousers were a curious addition but this was a comfortable collection but with the Tim Soar twist. 



HARDY AMIES

Last Style of Defense had had to take issue with the house - currently being resolved - but I can only give pictures and no write up as I didn't see any of the collection up close. Their Royal Highness Prince and Princess Michael of Kent's attendance was great, she was stunning up close with piercing eyes and he was just the embodiment of Royal. But this offering, from what I have seen online is an other storming winner which I can not wait to get on my back - for research purposes of course! 



JAMES LONG

This collection got many mouths and wallets salivating, if wallets could, as the deconstructed knitwear that featured heavily was stunning. To the sounds of 'Mickey Mouse And The Goodbye Man' by Grinderman, 'You Can't Quit Me' by Queens of the Stone Age and  'Run The Night' by Wicked Lady - which was the name of the show. This looked at a universe riddled with dark images of spirituality with a desensitised man grunged up and fucked up to the sounds of My Bloody Valentine, Wicked Lady and the echoing works of Vincent Gallo. The mohair coats in plum tones and grey worked well alongside leather and pony-skin jackets which was a striking, noticeable input. Workwear - CAT - boots could be found on the bottom with polka-dot shirts in between made this one of the hottest shows of this season. 


Sunday, 27 February 2011

Menswear Day London Fashion Week AW11 Edit

Finally! After much preparation and uploading in the midst of slow, almost dial-up speed Internet connection from Orange home broadband (which I highly recommend you do not use or sign up to - the J W Anderson video took almost 4 hours to get to 30%) here is the LSoD London Fashion Week edit. I would like to thank all of the PR's (including BMPR, Topman in house, AI PR, Starworks, Exposure, Relative MO, Four Marketing and Factory NYC) for giving LSoD readers the chance to 'be' at the shows. 

In all the rush, I forgot to take my chargers out with me and saw my Blackberry and camera die so a few designers do not have videos. Sorry! Those that don't will have their own post (and a few that do, will too) but I have to recover from one full hellish week that will, I think, be my last due to my new job, but LSoD will carry on attending and focusing on menswear day. 

JW ANDERSON

Up first - and the best 10 minutes of my life so far this year - was the incredible JW Anderson who's croaking frog sounds followed by "Eisbär" by Grauzone, "Love Song" by Koudlam and "Wave Of Mutilation (UK Surf)" by the Pixies that stirred us awake at an ungodly 8.45am. The collection was entitled 'The Fear Of Naturalism' which embraced the subcultures that have influenced the previous JW Anderson collections and makes them into a kind of non-denominational celebration of individual freedom, all wrapped up in reconsiderations of English tailoring and attempts to take dressing outside the boundaries of gender. With this in mind, many comments focused on the similarity of the women's collection shown in the week, but it was the tweed jackets with nylon quilted arms with paisley-print upper body or  shirts and trousers. Quilted leather biker jackets teamed with slim tailoring and full-length kilts were a show stopping impact. However, I can see the divine knitwear and the boots with hair toe detailing being hott sellers. 



TOPMAN DESIGN 

See the collection pieces in the video and back stage in these shots below: 
















Oh, my thanks to Nicola and Tom at Arcadia and the Gemma at Topman for letting LSoD behind the scenes and front 'frow' row - it never disappoints. The Topman Design boy for autumn/winter 2011 would not look out of place leaving a smoky Parisian jazz club during the early hours in the early Fifties as well as with a slight rockabilly edge. Tweed and tonic herringbone suits worked well with high waisted trousers and turn-ups, double-breasted jackets. The inspired printed silk shirts screamed 1970s with a splatter of Paris teamed with neck scarves and the incredibly well talked about faux fur-trimmed coats and faux fox stoles. All to the sounds of "Surfacing" by Chapel Club, "Out Getting Ribs" by Zoo Kid, "Wor" by Django Django. Hott and a treat and a well run show from Family Productions. 

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON 


Entitled 'Hold Yer Head Up' which was a collection suitable for Bond Street via Peru, the offering drew on the photojournalism of Pieter Hugo (who famously documented Nigerians with hyenas on leashes), the documentary shots of Sirkka-Liisa Konttinen and David Attenborough's Human Planet. To the sounds of Rhinanna's 'Whats My Name' remixed and Thee Cures Robert Smith, paneled and printed sportswear incorporating nylon fringing and woven blanket fabrics, patchwork and print flat-caps, quilted tops and trousers courtesy of Lavenham, Pointer shoes, Eastpak bags, a suitable Rihanna tribute scarf. It was a confusing collection, but enjoyable non the less. 

MAN COLLECTIONS 




NEW POWER STUDIO'S - Influenced by The Last Dance, a mixture of rituals, excesses, costumes and props associated with contemporary hen nights and the traditional Roman Catholic carnival which marks the beginning of Lent. A mixture yes, but the inclusion of luxury fabrics, sportswear with graphic type prints and a small child in a velour hooded tracksuit topped with incense sticks made this an entertaining collection. 





FELIPE ROJAS LLANOS - A grand inspiration of the 'The Grand Hall of the Mountain King', the collection played to the physically challenging world of ballet and opera which, like this collection was beautifully executed. The Red Shoes, by Michael Powel, was a colour influence of muted tones of black and petrol blue for overcoats which drapped, again deep v-necks t-shirts teamed with slim ankle cut trousers which accentuated the beauty of the Grenson shoes. 




MARTINE ROSE -  With a multitude of inspirational sources, the collection presented tribal blanket fabrics,  multi-coloured CAT boots and clothing to keep warm in; jeans with leather, fur and suede patching. 'Amouring for the Weather' really was the total of the collection - with some ghostly white large leafed head garlands. 


KOKON TO ZAI 



The hottest of the coolest designers in London, Kokon to Zai never fail to disappoint with a number of of mens looks that included heavy fur, asymmetric  electric colored prints and pallets and over sized accessories. A show to the end, Kokon to Zai is an event in itself. 

TWEEN



The closing show of menswear day was one of the most enjoyable as well as LSoD readers had the chance to follow the show on Twitter as I was exclusively 'Tweeting from Tween'. The well tailored collection, from a relatively unknown Turkish brand, saw some stunning pieces, including houndstooth trench coats, sharp olive trousers paired with soft wool jackets all to give an mountaineering feel to the offering. Each model was accessorized with a blanket, rolled up as to give the impression of an away day to the hills - though this collection was not over it. 

Wednesday, 23 February 2011



Launching today: Lotus Origionals - luxurious menswear from the producer of Britons most luxurious sports cars. 




LOTUS ORIGINALS - Behind The Scenes from Bryan Morel PR on Vimeo.

Tuesday, 22 February 2011

London Fashion Week: Tween AW11

This is a sneak peek at the new collection that will close London Fashion Week menswear day. I am really excited to see the Turkish brand because of its great aesthetic and also:

Last Style of Defense will be officially Tweeting from the Tween show here: @lsofd from 8.00pm GMT. 


Tween’s A/W 2011-12 collection explores man’s irrepressible need for discovery. Inspired by the discoveries that have shaped the modern world, the new collection offers a dynamic and innovative aesthetic for the modern man who loves to travel.

“Prepared to go anywhere, equipped to be confident,” the collection is made up of pieces that appeal to the free spirit. Multipurpose garments are created with an innate elegance, with highlight pieces including reversible, functional coats that can also be used as bags. Woolen jackets are coated and washed and sit alongside leather, denim and the range of fine gage and chunky knitwear.

Mackinaw coats, relaxed suiting and patterned knitwear are offered in saturated hues of mustard, maroon, blue, brown, green grey and navy.



Tween from tween

London Fashion Week Menswear Watch: Day 4

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry never fails to disappoint and this season was no exception despite the focus on outwear. Large checks, wide check and house checks sashed down the catwalk in a muted pallet of black against chocolate or grey against black or just a simple copper or black to form military inspired frock coats. Just one last thing; Cruella de Ville has influenced London this season, including Burberry, with a Dalmatian look as seen on the collar, below. 



Todd Lynn 

Todd Lynn is the Rock 'n' Roll king of London Fashion Week, constantly producing edgy yet luxurious. This season, his input in menswear produced a Dr. No, James Bond type silhouette, with Mandarin grey suiting teamed with leather sleeving and gloves. This dramatic translation of his collection lead to some stunning shapes yet stuck to his precise choice of muted shades which are powerful and wearable. I adore Lynn and his flowing lines for his menswear is another lustful wish for next season. 



Monday, 21 February 2011

Showroom from Next Door: Mr Hare, Casely-Hayford and More....


Sunday was a very quiet day for menswear watching in the mainly women's collections at London Fashion Week, so a visit to Tuoba Distribution lead The Showroom Next Door was a welcome trip. Situated near Claridges hotel on Grovsner Street, W1, the two-floored showroom hosts spaces for a number of incredible brands which I have highlighted here. I found the showroom after asking about for H by Harris as I could not find them at Somerset House. The space is just incredible, almost my fantasy boutique with my desired labels (and more) under one roof, in a clean space and with incredibly knowledgeable staff, Fode and Yuko. The glasses above are by Moo Piyasombatkul who sources vintage eyewear by Yves Saint Laurent for example and creates Baroque inspired porcelain detailing on the bridge. Having met her by chance at the showrooms, Moo's sense of individually is reflected in the one-off pieces as well as an appreciation for classic design. 

The first label I came to was Casely-Hayford which is one of my favorite, English classic apparel labels. It has very masculine lines yet I see a London twist in the detailing thanks to the cultural influences of designers, father and son Joe and Charlie Casley-Hayford who, to the suprise of many, only launched the label three years ago in 2008. The classic Scotch grain brogue influenced boots with toe tongue detailing are a great example of how the duo pair classic design, masculine ideologies with creative flare.  




These high-top sneakers stopped me in my tracks as the mix of colours on each work really well together. The plumb/olive/navy pair are incredibly earthy which I would probably wear with navy jeans to a country pub for Sunday lunch whilst the white/grey pair would be great for wearing to a sports event  in the city. 

The British designed collection is made in Japan which is apparent when you see the construction. The cut of the pieces, particularly in these shown below which I adore, are considerate of a newer generation of client who are tapping into tailoring - which I guess is an influence of Charlie, a graduate of Central St Martins, and his father Joe who was Creative Director of Gives and Hawkes. This double jersey jacket is incredibly soft and because it is unstructured, can be dressed up and down perhaps with the panel fronted white shirt that is cut to perfection. 



H by Harris was the accessories brand that led me to the showroom and it did not disappoint. The leather quilted backpacks and laptop cases have a newer brother for this season; the i-Pad case. This collection, entitled 'Notcturnalis' by designer Elliot Harris, the development from it's original AW09 quilted napper leather and wax hide leather has made this one of London's hottest accessories labels. Now, all I need is the i-Pad to justify the case or just to book a weekend away to use the stunning, black quilted nappa leather holdall. 




Hannah Martin's jewelry line is not for the financially faint-hearted. The range is stunning and I had great fun trying pieces on as well as exploring the finer details, discussing the stones and metals. Hannah is formerly of Cartier, Givenchy and Tag Heuer so I can see where she gets her edgy mixed with refinement from. 


Her tag-line for her rock 'n' roll yet elegant line is 'jewelry for men, that girlfriends want to steal'. Given that I will never have a girlfriend, which ever boy want's to steal this will have a fight on his hands, particularly with the geometric necklace with pink sapphires or the gold shackle ring, below. 



Mohsin Ali is a great label and as he was there when I was looking through the rail, a great person to speak to. Whilst I didn't get a chance to write anything down as he had to run to teach a martial arts class, I got a great idea what his collection is about. After moving from Huddersfield, Yorkshire 18 years ago, Mohsin graduated from the London College of Fashion in 1999 and has lead him to design for a number of brands around the world. He is a great believer in form, function and fabric which has lead him to produce this storming collection from which I have a few favorites. This belief has seen him invert all the usually extroverted details on clothing such as pockets and seams, so they look like imprints in the fabric. I really wanted to have a closer look at these pieces but he was with more clients soon after I moved onto the next label.  



Well, Mr. Hare needs little introduction as one of the world's most desirable footwear labels. Having profiled him for Velour magazine last year, it is great to see that his obsession for beautify, refinement and just great shoes that men want (obsessively or necessity) are translated here for Mr. Hare autumn/winter 2011. Looking back to his past collections, there is a certain sense of adventure here, as well as development in featuring a 'logo' for the first time. The scotch grain leather in burnt orange that merge into a carrot yellow sit well in the offering along side classic penny loafers in taupe or the returning patent with fabric toed pair below. An interesting detail is the square toe on the patent evening shoe with bow detail, which gives the style an interesting twist and a deeper sense of identity. 

I had to return to see the other drop of the collection (something to do with delivery times and days) which included the chocolate or black pony skin ankle boots and the utterly stunning olive suede boot with chocolate leather toe cap and straps around the ankle. Retailing at around £800, just to look at them was a pleasure, making my heart skip a beat on first sight but I can only imagine what they look like on with short finished trousers or rolled up jeans. The hiking boots have their own spin from what we are seeing this season, even if they do seem more luxurious and less practical than most because these are not going to be worn on a country walk or in the winter rain. However, the Vibram sole which features on the black or tan strapped boots gives them an urban sense of leisure. 

There is a greater focus on leather in this collection where as for the current offering eel, salmon and other skins takes a precedence yet I prefer leathers not only for practicality but because it can be manipulated more. This is the entire autumn winter 2011 collection from Mr. Hare, so enjoy the pictures, and I will be lusting after this collection until their release, which I think most of you will be too.