Inspired by 'The American dream' and Fifties high school, Eary's collection was a storming offering that did not disappoint. With Kim Jones in the audience, further reference includes a turned on its head by way of nonfiction science book Elephants On Acid And Other Bizarre Experiments by Alex Boese. To the sound of tunes 'Do You Remember' by The Horrors and Cliff Richard's 'Do You Remember', slime-green and blood-red leopard-print tops and bottoms were presented along side Goulish varsity and shearling jackets. Tarantula-print which was a bit of a shocker was apt along side cut-out cobweb tops. Desirable hairy knitwear worked well mixed with Triumph biker jackets and a childish, but age appropriate Frankenstein's monster backpack with customised Nike Air Force Ones on the bottom. Oh, and neck-bolts which topped of this collection nicely.
The wonderful and utterly visionary Lou Dalton says she was influenced by the frustrated and disillusioned Seattle scene through to the discomforting ruthlessness of the Russian criminal underworld. From this, the collection was based around a feeling of discomfort which drives an individual to look inwardly or to look around for acceptance from others. With that deepness, 'Painted Eyes' by Hercules and Love Affair and 'Moments Of Excellence' by Black Van, mixed and produced by Jim Stanton from Horse Meat Disco, was a stunning and suitable soundtrack. The tailored collection featured an incredible double-breasted grey herringbone overcoat (below) along side fur-lined jackets, intarsia knits and a long sleeve T-shirt featuring the by Ricardo Fumanel used on the invitation which took the guise of a Russian gangster tattoo-style illustration. Oh, and Grenson shoes on the bottom was a move that took my excitement over the edge.
With a collection that featured women, presenting the title, literally, of He/She, this was a reworking of the classics offering for the season. Tim Soar has some stunning pieces using interesting fabrics such as neoprene (in herringbone jackets), leather American varsity inspired jackets and melton for coats which interestingly used contrasting cotton sleeves. The using of British Hainsworth wool added to the military influence - they are used on Royal guard uniforms - and the velcro waistband tuxedo trousers were a curious addition but this was a comfortable collection but with the Tim Soar twist.
Last Style of Defense had had to take issue with the house - currently being resolved - but I can only give pictures and no write up as I didn't see any of the collection up close. Their Royal Highness Prince and Princess Michael of Kent's attendance was great, she was stunning up close with piercing eyes and he was just the embodiment of Royal. But this offering, from what I have seen online is an other storming winner which I can not wait to get on my back - for research purposes of course!
This collection got many mouths and wallets salivating, if wallets could, as the deconstructed knitwear that featured heavily was stunning. To the sounds of 'Mickey Mouse And The Goodbye Man' by Grinderman, 'You Can't Quit Me' by Queens of the Stone Age and 'Run The Night' by Wicked Lady - which was the name of the show. This looked at a universe riddled with dark images of spirituality with a desensitised man grunged up and fucked up to the sounds of My Bloody Valentine, Wicked Lady and the echoing works of Vincent Gallo. The mohair coats in plum tones and grey worked well alongside leather and pony-skin jackets which was a striking, noticeable input. Workwear - CAT - boots could be found on the bottom with polka-dot shirts in between made this one of the hottest shows of this season.