Sunday, 31 January 2010

Luke Abby

Here at LSoD, we love a new face in the modeling world, and I present Luke Abby.
With AMCK Models, look out for him on the catwalk soon, as he is going to be hott.

Sent from Heaven...Michael Angel

Happy Sunday LSoD readers! Sunday is the day of getting up late, flicking through The Sunday Times, eating a steaming roast dinner, and watching tv.

Well, I got up at 9am, have barely touched The Times, am waiting for my dinner and there is nothing on tv, so I hopped on Facebook instead. Browsing around, I found a link to this, the look book for Michael Angel, a renowned designer from New York. Now as he isn't a menswear designer, it is pretty simple to see why I was so taken up with these images.

The Australian born designer was Senior Visual and Creative supervisor at SABA, the department store down-under. From there he went on to design and has since turned to New York to host his shows. His pieces are sheer works of art, with beautiful colours and luxurious fabrics, though the guy in the images below is wearing a t-shirt, so maybe he is worth posting on here...

Thursday, 28 January 2010

Camper for Romain Kremer

Anyone who has been to the Camper store on London's Old Bond Street will know that, whilst there is little room to swing a pair of high tops, it is an emporium of cool footwear.

That cool aesthetic has been taken up by Romain Kremer, who, for his A/W10 show in Paris, incorporated some unique designs for the Camper Together Collaboration.

Kremer is known for this fashion forward and visionary style and these shoes below adopt quite a futuristic look; something that shone through as a trend this season.

These quite incredible shoes are made of premier leather combined with rubber, and the rubber 'wing' detail will be available in neon colours as well as the black.

The shoes will be available from late February here.

Designer Mix

There comes a time when, against all barriers, that you have go and get what you want. And my wants are these;

How INCREDIBLE is this, the Givenchy Golden Crown of Thorns. The Holy emblem seems to have slipped, worn as a necklace, suggesting, like a slipped halo, its for bad boys only.

Raf Simons High Sneaker; £689.00 from Oki-Ni
Sumptuous, British racing green chunky hi tops. They have amazing working buckle details, with a detailed embossed tongue and are made extra conspicuous with the white sole. Perfect.

Topman Lens S/S10

Topman has gone strength to strength over the past few years, particularly with the introduction of Topman Design and this, Topman Lens. No longer is the chain a quick stop for jeans and basics with a twist, but a fashion-forward outfitters that covers a range of price points.

This Topman Lens preview gives us a little tease of what is to come in February. Carolyn Massey, Dexter Wong, Mjolk, Kasper Harup-Hansen and new designers to the label - Dusty and Christopher Shannon are the force behind the collection.

And my favorite? It's definalty the shoulder rope-detailed jumper that has a short nod to Burberry Prorsum. The embellishment, of sorts, is really trend inspired towards miliary and a completely individual design. I adore the cropped pants teamed with waistcoat in the second image down, as well as the tuxedo-esqe jacket in the last image.

Images courtesy of the Topman

Monday, 25 January 2010

Paris Menswear Round-Up

As regular readers will know, I was working for The Glass Magazine this week covering the Paris Menswear shows. Here is the pick of my favourites and a summary of the trends that have emerged throughout this week. To read the posts in full, click here, in the mean time...enjoy!

Ann Demeulemeester –

The latest collection from Ann Demeulemeester was music to everyone's ears as punk rock singer Patti Smith was the apparent inspiration for her latest offering.
A limited pallet of stark black, crisp white and soft camel was lifted by the glistening, hard silverware draped around the models waist.

Relaxed suits, with slim legged trousers yet gathered high at the waist, formed the basis for twenty-nine moody, nouveaux punk looks. Beautifully layered, this relaxed yet emotive collection also saw a smattering of PVC jackets and coats, leather gloves, and this seasons must have, the military boot.

Dior Homme –

If there was any doubt that bigger is better, Dior Homme has confirmed that the Decade of Skinny is well and truly over.
No longer is the cut of the cloth so close, as overcoats were of, almost, oversized proportions as they cascaded over the models slender frames.

A traditionally muted pallet for Dior Homme, of black, white and grey, was lifted by lighter shades of oatmeal and hearty aubergine. Tailoring featured heavily, yet the street trend for 'cool' rolled up trousers has finally tricked-up to the catwalk as Van Assche cut the length significantly shorter.

Dunhill –

An English Man in Paris was the ideology behind Dunhill's latest collection, with uber-trendy designer Kim Jones at the helm.

Slim waisted, wool jackets matched with sleek trousers, however tucked into thick wool socks, were paired with Liberty-style printed shirts with an Edwardian collar. Smart black tuxedos with crests, and silk bow ties, added some extra English glamour to this exceptionally traditional collection that was viewed through a modern lens.

Venturing into the realms of British exploration, yellow-laced mountain boots and brown military boots added to the sense of adventure, bomber-style jackets, padded and belted heavy wool coats formed the basis for outerwear.

Givenchy –

Paris was today blessed with a Holy Order, of sorts, coming in the guise of Givenchy, as Riccardo Tisci seemed to be inspired by the monochrome uniforms of the Catholic church.

With a limited pallet of black and white, buttoned up cotton shirts, slim wool trousers and sharp tailoring formed the basis for the collection that is as simplistic as fashion can get.

A small capsule collection of twenty-seven looks, Givenchy were limited with their accessories this season. Usually a design house reputed for their footwear, models donned patent-leather Jesus sandals, whilst some came complete with a gold Crown of Thorns.

Well, if the Pope can wear Prada, then I'm sure a little bit of Parisian chic wouldn't go a miss either.

Rick Owens –

High end gothic with a splash of futuristic chic, Rick Owens seemed to nod to the athletic yet kept his latest offerings typically dark.
The asymmetrical cut of the garments was elongated to create a more refined aesthetic, however the muted pallet of white, black, metallics and soft mocha kept this collection modern, despite many Ziggy Stardust influences.

A heavy use of suede, fur and leather for coats and jackets made his outerwear some of the most creative seen this season. A great use of textures, including fox fur, crocodile and snakeskin, to stimulate the senses, has made this collection some what of an homage to geek chic.

Yves Saint Laurent –

Slim, slimmer and skinny was the ideology behind Stefano Pilati's latest collection for Yves Saint Laurent as he shrank down the garments to, what seemed like, miniscule sizes.

Sending out a refined mix of soft and hard garments, strict tailored jackets in greys and browns hugged pleated shirt tails that hung out from underneath.
The typically French models sauntered down the catwalk wearing smart black brogues which were then lost as the eye moved up to the leopard-printed, long gloves.
But it is the all-in-one, tailored jump suit that will be somewhat lost in this Parisian translation.

Louis Vuitton –

'Bleisure' – a fusion of business and leisure – was the inspiration for Paul Helbers, studio director for Louis Vuitton, and Marc Jacobs who presented a mix of casual and formal clothing that referenced Vienna's early 20th century community of artists.
With luxurious leather coats, winter wools and plush tweeds, the collection was constructed around layered tailoring, in graphite, espresso, black and the odd splash of neon yellow.

Slim waisted, crisp white shirts formed the basis for an understated yet masculine aesthetic that accentuated the sleek tweed jackets and slim wool trousers tucked into thick wool socks. Who ever said the skinny leg was dead on men did not foresee this refined bohemian aesthetic.

With the traditional monogram taking a back seat this season, other accessories included spacious satchels and holdalls, high military boots and patent leather shoes with metallic soles.

Jean Paul Gaultier –

Bruised and bashed was the mantra for Jean Paul Gaultier as he presented a boxing inspired collection that promised to be, 'The greatest bout of all time'.
With skin-tight jersey sweat pants, satin shorts, thick woollen knits and leather jackets, the collection also showed off Gaultier's technical abilities with sharp tailored suits and slim pinstripe trousers.

Red, black and white boxing boots and patent leather shoes took centre ring for accessories that were perfectly understated to accentuate the satin piped detail on military-inspired short jackets and leather-panel detailed wool coats.
A mixed pallet of black, white, army green and soft caramels worked perfectly to present this collection in a more wearable light.

Dries Van Noten –

Continental country gentleman seemed to be the suave inspiration for Dries Van Noten as a typically Anglo look influenced his latest offering.

Sharp tailoring, relaxed boating jackets and belted trench coats dominated the collection that would not go amiss at this summers Henley Regatta. A predominately light navy, camel and soft grey pallet was muted by the loud multicolour stripes emblazoned on tailored shirts, slim trousers and accessories.

Lanvin –

Protection was the inspiration at Lavin, a primary theme week, as menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver delivered a storming collection on this last day for menswear in Paris.

Under the direction of the formidable Alber Elbaz, Ossendrijver has kept the brands perfected aesthetic, continuing to use beautiful fabrics such as soft cashmeres and modern cottons, produced in a luxurious yet demur pallet of blue, greys and brown.
Slim tailoring formed the basis for the collection, which under flowing, extra long coats accentuated the theme of protection. Military influenced the collection as sturdy rucksacks and utilitarian garments accessorised with laced forces boots and wide leather belts added weight to this recurring trend this season.

* * *

Sleek tailoring, military, leather, oversized coats, black, white, fur and exotic skins, have been a recurring trend at the majority of the shows. But lets see how Jean Paul Gaultier's boxing theme and Yves Saint Laurent's tailored jump suit catch on. Though one thing is for sure, we will all be wrapping up warm as layering is they key to your Autumn/Winter 2010 success.

All Images

Wednesday, 20 January 2010

Broken Glass

A friend over at Glass Magazine emailed to ask if I could do them a little favor this week, so I will be covering the Paris Menswear Thursday-Sunday.

It's going to be quite manic so I will try and post the links on LSoD, if not...keep checking here to see what is going on!

In the mean time, I will try and slip a few posts here for you!

Burberry Defies Recession

I haven't really dwelled on the recession because, to be honest, I have found that if people have wanted something; they have bought it. I once sat in a cafe near Oxford Street, London mid-last year when the crisis was still in full swing yet all I saw was a sea of yellow Selfridges bags. Then I reported that Selfridges was to announce £100 million profit. Go figure...

This time it is Burberry who is doing quite well as it has broken expectations to announce a 10% rise in underlying sales. It was thought that they would reach 3% for the three months to December 31 2009. However, to ensure further growth through the economic downturn they have cut jobs and carefully managed their stocks. Furthermore, the company are doing well in Europe and Asia.

In true form of celebrity endorsement and campaigning, Emma Watson - the Harry Potter star- has helped jump the company's shares by 8% to close this week around 649p, up 49p on last week.
I didn't feature the new campaigns here when they were released as every blog, twitter and online fashion site featured them but you can see the her fresh, fun and youthful appeal that has helped boost profits. Plus, with her brother getting in on the Burberry act the Watson family can, it seems, do no wrong.

Hose Bag is That?

It's a material that may have seen 30 years of action or just spent its life coiled up on a wall, but the fire hose has seen a new lease of life thanks to artists Elvis and Kresse.
For the eco-artist duo, salvaging old fire hoses and turning them into everything from wallets, bags, cufflinks and belts has been a sure fire hit.

James Henrit and Kresse Wesling are Brighton-based environmentalists and saw their first product, fire-hose belts, sell 500 units in a single day at the Live Earth event in 2007. At £25 a go, they were not the cheapest of accessories but defiantly the most desirable.

The material, double wall nitrile rubber, can only be put into landfill and with landfill sights almost at capacity even destroying it is can't be destroyed. And so the only way to reuse it is, it seems, to accessorise it.

With such an amazing range of accessories on their site, this must be one of the most ingenious ways of recycling one of the most impossible materials in the world. The pair will officially launch at Esthetica, the eco branch of London Fashion Week in February and have already previewed their collection at Sotheby's. What's more, 50% of the profits go to The Fire Fighters Charity.

The Style of the Irish: Steve Corcoran

As London gears up for Fashion Week, the focus will be on the stars of the present; Basso and Brooke, Henry Holland, Burberry etc. But Saturday saw the London College of Fashion MA Show and it was Steve Corcoran that pretty much stole the show.

Steve is a former graduate of the renowned NCAD in Dublin and has previously worked in industrial design for Waterford Crystal. His collection was...well, shiny, and that was achieved by using his experience of crystal by embellishing double face satin silks from France with custom-made pink and mirror crystals from China.

His collection explores the relationship society has with branding, not quite so much as logo-mania that was seen in the 1990s, yet he established a link between super-brands and the trend of military insignias. From this, the overall design ideology was based on rank and his use of pink cashmere and cream crocodile leather enhances the conspicuous consumption and seduction of the luxury goods industry to mark rank between the generation of our youth.

To view the full collection photographed by Anton Rodriguez, click here.