Tuesday, 30 September 2014

Blac Ivy Stockholm SS15

Although founded only last year, seeing another Scandi-label coming to the fore is only a positive for menswear. Blac Ivy Stockholm describes itself as a progressive menswear concept, of which they present their SS15 sophomore collection called Silence Between Colors. Excellent in its simplicity, every detail shouts of refinement that features a host of contrasting textures and exclusive materials that bring sophistication to work and sportswear garments. 

Having discovered that the now ubiquitous Sports Lux & Lifestyle trend primarily started and developed on the streets of Scandinavia, many interpretations are now developing. The Blac Ivy designers were heavily inspired by the 1950’s button down and classic military garb, mixing these elements with the fore mentioned trend; t-shirts come with with added length and an innovative seam detail pairs exceptionally well with classic, yet incredibly cut bomber jackets to create a sleek and minimal, yet wearable collection that speaks to the modern, urban and lifestyle driven menswear culture. This defiantly one Scandinavian label to watch.  

Monday, 29 September 2014

GAP x GQ Best New Designers of America

 Brooklyn Tailors 

The annual announcement of the Gap x GQ Best Designers of America project is always an exciting time in promoting both young and established labels and brands to a wider audience. Whilst officially released a little while back, these shots provide a fuller picture of the collections that will land tomorrow, Tuesday 20th September. The limited edition collections always sell out quickly and I have to say, this is a very strong year for the project with both Brooklyn Tailors and John Elliot & Co standing out the most. 

This years ensemble represent the four tribes of modern American menswear that we see today; street, surf, sartorial and athleisure. Whilst all have a causal or dress-casual point of view, all of these pieces - ranging from £28 to £310 - are as versatile as they are exciting. 
GQ’s Best New Menswear Designers in America project, which was established in 2007, works to advance and bring attention to emerging American menswear designers; selected by GQ’s editor-in-chief, Jim Nelson, creative director Jim Moore, and the magazine’s fashion editors. The chosen designers are selected and take part in a mentoring program led by GQ and Gap to ensure longevity and commercial success in a wider market place. 

En Noir 

John Elliot & Co


Neuw AW14

After discovering Neuw in Las Vegas earlier this year, I have become a firm fan; captured by its very relaxed yet refine pieces that you could say fit into that Normcore trend that is sweeping fashion right now. Simplicity is the key here, and a definite capturing of a casual, Los Angelean spirit that focuses on the minimal and natural. For their AW14 collection, Neuw has been inspired by the punk and avant-garde scene of LA during the 1970’s, which hey have interpreted into this themed of The Damned. 

The collection embodies the dark, decadent and gritty spirit of the people and music of the time yet retains modern heritage interpretations of great indigo dyed and blackened fabrics which look great with washed cottons. My favourite look? The white shirt and indigo dyed denim, below. Fresh yet rooted in simplicity, it captures the spirit of our time but also that of the labels.

Friday, 26 September 2014


When a designer and an advertising agency come together to create a label, initially I would not be expecting much weight or excitement. Finding the above shot last week on Pintrest (prior to knowing the labels story), I hunted high-and-low to find the brand without luck, until Greg White - the designer - emailed me yesterday to introduce Roux. Having seen the innovation of the sports luxe and urban casual trends developing in Stockholm and Copenhagen, give me a black-on-black or black and white look any day and I'm sold. 

This is Roux's first collection, available here now, with carefully considered hand-printed t-shirts, inspired by the often over-delivered, and suggestion that it’s all been done before. Despite this very British sense of perspective, it feels fresh and original and I for one, am a fan. Predominantly monochrome in delivery with subtle uses of teal, the graphics follow designer Greg White’s favoured style of bold shapes, repeat patterning and subtle concealed messages. The two college t-shirts really pack a punch in terms of simplicity and graphic design, as does the simple white tee with the angular stripe. There is more to come in October, including the baseball cut, cropped black jacket below which also feels quite fresh whilst being seemingly familiar. I look forward to seeing more of Roux in the coming months. 

Thursday, 25 September 2014

Hentsch Man AW14


Launching online in the next couple of weeks, Hentsch Man is landing a new capsule collection called Dark Floral. Visually stunning, well cut and full of the Hentsch ingredients that makes this label so captivating within the menswear arena, the five piece AW14 offering comprises this jacket, trouser and sneaker as well as a shirt and tie. Who said floral just had to be for Spring...?

Christian Louboutin

Wardrobe staples is a term that, depending on where you look, encapsulates a vast array of pieces. However, Christian Louboutin have firmly defined two new classic styles; the Education (with the brogue detailing) and the Trepeter (the plain Derby), both of which are well crafted shoes for the well curated man. Both made from calf leather, the Education is a full-brogue dress shoe, which in the hand painted cognac colour will take you from day-to-night, dress - with a suit - or dress casual - with a pair of jeans and a crisp, white shirt. 

The Trepeter is handcrafted from superfine Calf Patine leather, a sleek and sophisticated look where the orlato detail gives it a crisp and structured silhouette that looks great in the plain black. With the Education retailing at £825 and Trepeter at £795, they are well worth the investment and can be bought from the Louboutin Men's Store on Dover Street and at Selfridges, both in London - and Internationally online at the Christian Louboutin website

Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Patricio Campillo AW14 x Iasonas Laios

Feeling a little under-the-weather recently with a nasty seasonal cold, this latest look book by Patricio Campillo for his Fall/Winter 2014 lookbook, featuring Iasonas Laios (photographed by Gorka Postigo) has cheered me up no end. with Iasonas incredibly strong, masculine and Italian or Gallic look, he is the man I would like to being me Lemsip and chicken soup. Campillo's debut collection is a stimulus between what is relevant now and what he feels that will shape the future in terms of identity and style, which for Patricio is beyond sexual gender, but never beyond sexual attraction. 

We are seeing a massive trend revival of Rock ‘n’ Roll in the 90′s, an increase in the visual trend of gender ambiguity juxtaposed classic menswear tailoring yet the collection here has a softer, more fluid approach that boarders the Scandinavian refined with a sports luxe look as well as a European flare. Thanks for FY for bringing me this fine figure of a future husband supermodel.

Teva Originals SS14

With yet more news (again!) that we will see a revival of an Indian Summer here in the UK, there is no better time to look at Teva for SS14. Celebrating 30 years of developing the iconic, simple and practical sports sandal that was created on the Colorado River in 1984, they have developed the Teva Originals collection for the moment. Remaining true to their heritage, the primary blue and yellow palette of the sole unit and nylon webbed straps that reflect the history of the brand pack quite the punch on and off the foot. I have worn mine for a couple of days, and I can say that they make quite the Normcore trend statement as well as being quite comfortable. Happy Birthday Teva! 

Tuesday, 23 September 2014

Ted Baker AW14


To celebrate the release of Ted Baker’s AW14 collection, they have launched ‘Take the Lead’, a seasonally themed, choreographed film showcasing the latest duel-gender collection, contrasting modern finishes with classic touches. They say it takes two to tango in Argentina and inspired by a recent boat trip along the Nile and other to exotic destinations, Ted’s menswear is full of jewel tones of burgundy, teal, emerald green and vibrant orange on knitwear, jersey and chinos. 

The collection also features exciting, contemporary textures – including enlarged prints and jacquards. Colour blocking is a trend that has reemerged within menswear and takes form on blazers with contrast lapels, pockets and sleeves, whilst geos, dogtooth and paisley prints stand out across the collection along side camouflage and leopard prints on acessories. Well, who said Autumn Winter had to be boring.

Kennington California SS14

It is fair to say that Kennington and their prints are a cultural and apparel icon that has thrived through several fashion generations: the original button down “Ivy’s” and Rat Pack stylings of the late 50s and early 60s; surf-influenced looks of the 60s and beyond; Funky & Groovy Threads, Western patchworks and quilts, terry and pieced knits in the 70s; disco polyesters of the 80s; and six decades of timeless and classic Hawaiians. Kennington Ltd., Inc. was established by Stan Tendler in 1957 in Los Angeles, California, in his parent’s garage near La Brea and Beverly Boulevards. It was an unremarkable beginning for a company that would go on to become a West Coast fashion industry force.
Whilst looking back at their archives, together with some contemporary interpretations of past designs, this SS14 collection finely captures the Californian spirit. Rooted within surf culture and Hawaiian shirting, this new offering has a great cut plus, I really like the longer sleeves which can be rolled easily. The Peace Sign and Dove of Peace print look as fresh as they did back in the 60s but done in a way that looks a contemporary abstract print - particularly in the trousers. It's great to see a true heritage brand, from the West Coast, continuing to be relevant more that fifty years later. 

The White Briefs SS15


First off, The White Briefs is not a label about its namesake but incredible sports luxe pieces with an organic yet technical slant. The collection is composed of sultry tops, fitted bottoms, clean lines and understated silhouettes which embodies the Swedish aesthetic perfectly. Smart textures are morphed, enhanced and contrasted by sleek surfaces, alluding to an architectural feel - equipping all modern travellers with essential sartorial pieces. The palette of the collection for SS15 focuses heavily on pale yellows, capturing the sun, green moss tones, a dash of red and cool blues mimicking the seasonal shift of the Swedish countryside. 

Monday, 22 September 2014

Les Benjamins

Something old. Something true. Something borrowed... All ways new. What a great adaptation of the old saying yet made for a contemporary approach to menswear. That fantastic phrase comes from Les Benjamins, set up by Bunyamin Aydin, who decided to create the label following on the ideas and attitudes of Les Jeunes Turcs, a group of young intellectual dissidents who believed in ‘Union and Progress’ at the time of the Ottoman Empire. 

For AW14, Les Benjamins stays close to their core inspiration but focuses on a black, grey and red palette with a very strong focus on graphic prints such as iconic landmarks, tartan and camo. The brand is growing at a rapid pace around the world with over 250 retailers; strategically placed in only high end retailers and concept stores to keep in line with their brand image. Stores globally include Harvey Nichols and Browns in London, Bloomingdales, Galerie Lafayette, La Rinascente, Beymen, Jades 24, H. Lorenzo, and Saks. Very few brands impress me, or spark a tingle of excitement, from seeing their looks books but Les Benjamins has done both.