Tuesday, 27 January 2015
With the ending of the AW15 Menswear season yesterday, I came to wonder what if menswear had a smell. Not in the oozing way of a thousand male models meets the heady, smokey entrances to many a show space but a representation that conjurers up what menswear means today. Penhaligan's, the famed London perfumers which was founded in 1870, may just have the solution. Official scent provider of the London Collections: Men, they released the Vaara collection, which was seen and smelt at Victoria House, The Hospital Club and a good few events.
Vaara started life as the passion of His Highness Gaj Singh II who wanted to reflect his family’s deep love and connection with Jodhpur, with the aroma giving you glimpse into this aromatic world of the Maharaja. It was, however, Penhaligan's perfumer Bertand Duchaufour’s journey to Jodhpur that provided him with an abundance of inspiration for the fragrance and the end result, Vaara, cleverly captures the spirit of this fascinating part of India.
This candle has a very aromatic and apparent smell of quince juice, with the undertones of coriander, carrot seeds and creamy saffron that are decadent as well as suave. It's polite but has an edge that peaks your interest yet it isn't overbearing, whilst giving you a sense of freshness that is mature enough for the everyday. For these reasons, I think Vaara can indeed be the smell of menswear today.
Adidas is a brand that has, in the past couple of years, dominated the 'iconic sneaker' market with both the Stand Smiths and these, the Superstar. These, from JD Sports, are the second incarnation of the simple, clean profile that works well with some washed denim, white shirt and a grey cable knit for a great dress casual and/or sport luxe inspired look. Adidas dipped into their archive for these, calling out the crafted all-white leather upper that stands out to show the toe details and the adidas three stripe branding to the sides - perfect for those who like to keep it simple when it comes to their footwear.
The adidas Superstar, born in 1969, has achieved such an iconic status as it has endured both the explosion of the basketball sneaker trend as well as from competition, on the street and on the track, for more than 40 years. During the 70's, the adidas Superstar was the favourite gametime sneaker amongst the NBA, with the 100% leather upper creating the perfect balance between freedom of movement and stability, while the shell-toe cap reinforced foot protection. Since those days, they are now ingrained into street style and culture, with a perfect balance between fashion and lifestyle. Fancy grabbing a pair? Check out the full-offering here.
This could be the hottest shoot from one of my favourite blogs, Fucking Young, yet. With Maria Budtova photographing Arthur Daniyarov, Vanya Zaharov, Nik Frumkin, Dima Sultanov, Pasha Novosad, Artem Stebelkov, Roman Larichev, Andrey Korovko and Yada Poison in what seems a hedonistic, frat-come-model flat, fashion's constant idolisation of the model industry is very apparent. Not that I am complaining. Where styling occurs, Tanya Mazina has done a great job so take a look at the full shoot here, although I wonder if there is room for one more, (not so model) boy...
Monday, 26 January 2015
Seeing as I am going to Copenhagen on Wednesday, it would be rude not to mention that Danish contemporary lifestyle brand Wood Wood launched their Campion Select collaboration today, the limited edition designer collaboration project with innovative athletic apparel, Champion Athleticwear. The Champion Select line has been created exclusively for Urban Outfitters - however, seemingly only in the USA - across men's and women's, in partnership with three directional designers curated by the Capsule Show - Wood Wood, New York based Timo Weiland and London designer Craig Green. The aim of the collaboration project is to bring to life a modern interpretation of the Champion brand as envisioned by these three prominent independent fashion designers. The men’s offering consists of a classic crew neck short-sleeved sweatshirt, an iconic coach jacket and a full button-down polo shirt – a design focused hybrid product referencing a modern polo shirt and a classic baseball jersey.
Whistles Menswear has never wavered in its excellence. It maybe still in its infancy with a couple of seasons under its belt, so it is no surprise that for Spring Summer 2015 they continue an exploration of bold prints, innovative textures and fabrics. Design, cut and silhouette aside, these three factors have made the menswear collection stand out from the rest of the higher end of the high street - and even the lower end of the designer spectrum.
Inevitably, although with no complaints, SS15 shapes are informed by traditional sportswear with a nod to athletic styling. A defined colour palette features a modern mix of blues, punctuated with muted pastels – powder blue, lilac and peach all work in unison with palm, Memphis and graphic brutalist inspired prints, which accent the collection. Outerwear offers a development on modern classics, the brush stroke cagoule, the cross check harrington, unlined bomber and the bonded jersey windbreaker whilst Jersey is dip-dyed, panelled and oversized. Whilst Whistles Menswear excels in outwear, their other area of strength are shirts, which this season emerge in a fine check, seersucker and soft linen, with raglan sleeve and dropped hem details.
The sportswear influence continues into knitwear, the bonded hoody in a pale blue summer hue features their take on the kangaroo pocket, whilst the indigo striped crew answers all of your contemporary classic needs. On trend, with the perfect combination of heritage and contemporary styling, denim is the key fabric focus from indigo dyed sweats and sweatpants to chambray caps and patch pockets whilst footwear focuses on the suede espadrille with an authentic gum sole. One area to watch here is their swimwear, which will no doubt be coming to a beach near you.
By far one of the best places to buy sneakers and gym wear, JD Sports presents its Fresh In collection for SS15, that boasts a dynamic collection of the must have pieces. Especially selected from some of the hottest brands; Nike, Adidas, Brookhaven, Duffer, Pure Simple Sport and Supply and Demand, the curated collective looks at key seasonal colours as well as a more classic colour palettes. I really like the graphics, fresh model choices and concept to give us guys a fun and statement collection for those who aren’t afraid to stand out.
Labels: JD Sports
Friday, 23 January 2015
As I am off to Copenhagen next week for CIFF, this collaboration announcement could not have come at a better time. Soulland, the contemporary Danish label, has teamed up with American denim brand Lee - but have chosen London for the official launch drop. With a pair of jeans and a jacket in a distinctive polka dot patchwork pattern. With Scandinavia as the go to destination for denim, the duo make for the perfect partnership, noted as it’s strongest market, following the UK and with London being the worldwide hotbed for style, Lee look to the city for a particular focus this season. This is the first ever collaboration that Soulland has participated in, so head to Goodhood in London or Colette in Paris to snap up one, or both, items quick.
Ahhh, Bernstock Speirs; about bloody time! The creative and offbeat hat label has finally debuted into Men's head wear with this AW15 collection. This very curated collection of structured felt hats are beautifully Made in England from pure wool felt, with Trilbies and Homburgs reinterpreted with a sportswear influence and details from utility clothing. This is just my favourite selection of the offering - my favourite being the Trilbie with shaved shearling stripe - however all the hats come in a classic Black, Navy, Grey or Camel. With signature Bernstock Speirs style these hats are contemporary, unexpected, unique - and a superb debut for the chaps so keep an eye on the website for their drop date.
Wednesday, 21 January 2015
Watch the Louis Vuitton show live on LSoD but before and after the show, keep up to date on Instagram where Kim Jones, Men's Style Director, is taking over the official Louis Vuitton Instagram account. Follow him on @LouisVuitton for a behind the scenes view of the show inspiration. You can also keep up to date on Twitter @LouisVuitton_UK for instant news on the show.
ASOS pretty much get things right every time, so to continue that winning run as part of ASOS’ on going dedication to working with new and exciting creative talent, photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy was bought on board for SS15. Invited to be the creative partner in the shooting of their SS15 skateboarding and streetwear influenced lookbook, help was given by Max Pearmain as stylist, and together they were involved in all aspects of the shoot – from model casting, location and creative direction – to create a series of photographs that perfectly encapsulate the look and feel of ASOS Menswear for SS15. An effective partnership that represents SS15 in a way that ASOS hasn’t done before –a raw and contemporary selective edit with Rubchinskiy’s visions bought to life with 10 images that embody ASOS for the season.
A bastion of style in Milan, Pal Zileri has welcomed a new Creative Director, Mauro Ravizza Krieger, along with a fresh, innovative take on the buttoned-up, sartorial look for AW15. Krieger presented looks to an audience at the new headquarters that included showcasing the new collection with contemporary sensibilities, proportions and techniques executed by the hands of Italian craftsmen with Avant-Garde vision. Drawing on inspirations from their archives, fresh prints include houndstooth and Prince of Wales, as well as other geometric designs were supporting a modern alchemic layering of the finest yarns – alpaca, cashmere, superfine wool, silk wool blends, mohair and angora.